Nuit Noire

Yes, this is definitely a polarizing fragrance but, given how some perfumers and brands have pushed the boundaries of old-fashioned skanky stuff since Nuit Noire was originally released, this is much less *challenging* than it used to be perceived. The opening is a white floral (mainly orange blossoms to me) with some sparkling citrusy notes. Very nostalgic in feel and aimed to tribute french feminine chypre classics. It suddenly turns into a kind of sharp and too dangerously soapy middle phase where the animalics show their presence with a slightly fecal musky presence. The juxtaposition between soap and the animalic elements still feels somewhat classic but there's something wrong about it. It's like smelling a beloved fragrance which has turned. It doesn't settle with the skin comfortably. It feels somewhat out of place. The base is a warm and very old-fashioned ambery-leather with sweetish facets. All in all not the monster they made us believe it was but, in year 2014, nowhere close the charming power of somewhat similarly themed fragrances such as, say, Bogue's MAAI or even Chypre Palatin. Rating: 6/10

Holy c~#p! this is potent stuff. Way too animalic for me. Tonnes of suede and musc before the tuberose can be detected along with cardamom, ginger and cloves. Its a real animalic spice bomb on me. It would be a brave man or woman who wears this. Its not bad after an hour or so its still too animalic for my taste. The usual extraordinary longevity and moderate sillage. Its migraine inducing for me as well.

To me this is like an alternate universe "Bal a Versailles" by Jean Desprez, but this one is soapy where Bal a Versailles is not (that one is more kaleidoscopic floral), and this one has even more civet than the Bal a Versailles. Both feature orange blossom and cedar heavily. And I actually like both very, very much. This one is even more sophisticated than the present Bal a Versailles imo. Nuit Noire is sultry and worldly, with for me an exciting somehow synthetic edge that does not detract from the hot heat main event...I don't see civet listed as a note, perhaps it's the leather mixed with sandalwood plus spices that gives the effect?

Holy c~#p! this is potent stuff. Way too animalic for me. Tonnes of suede and musc before the tuberose can be detected along with cardamom, ginger and cloves. Its a real animalic spice bomb on me. It would be a brave man or woman who wears this. Its not bad after an hour or so its still too animalic for my taste. The usual extraordinary longevity and moderate sillage. Its migraine inducing for me as well.

Don't let the opening put you off entirely! I don't know what Mona do Orio used to get up to on her nuits out, but on opening notes this perfume suggests some sort of weird cinema experience - descending into a foetid basement (which carries traces of ancient dog dirt) to discover an arty cinema space where they sell (somewhat out of date) popcorn and everyone wears vintage fur coats that exude the reek of moth balls that preserved them. Well, that's the first half hour anyway. I can think of a time when I'd have relished such an experience, but a lifetime in the arts and living in Edinburgh where we have to endure the Festival Fringe each year with its emerging and experimental shows has cured me of such impulses! Maybe that just shows my age though, there's only so much grungy experimentalism you can consume. After half an hour though, this fades to a pleasant dark treacely salty warm amber with just a touch of buttery sweet tuberose (hence the popcorn feel). Feels natural - maybe too natural if you like your perfume abstract and elegant. Definitely a perfume for those who seek something quite warm and grounded. In total contrast I'm testing Paestum Rose by Eau d'Italie on the other wrist, which feels totally incongruous with Nuit Noir's sticky darkness, as though someone opened the basement window and the scent of an exquisite breeze has drifted in from the rooftop flat of an austerely elegant retired ballerina. Of the two, Paestum Rose feels more expensive, but next to Nuit Noir it's perhaps too austerely elegant for me. Nuit Noir is actually quite easy to wear in dry down, and it's only with nose close to wrist that I can still smell the indolic moth ball notes