Hermessence Iris Ukiyoé

The distinct indolic character can sometimes cause headaches, but the sheer beauty of this fragrance makes it irresistible for me. I'll admit, there's a chance that my enjoyment stems from a touch of masochism regarding its intensity.

A truly magnificent Jean-Claude Ellena fragrance. Mandarin orange opens with a sharp citrus presence followed by a genuine iris flower, mingled with gentle orange blossom and a delicate rose underneath. There might be additional citrus nuances like bergamot or lemon within this blend. This perfume feels refreshing, cool as if standing in a freshly rained-upon garden. It evokes images of water and dew. The scent is straightforward yet refined, conveying much depth. Iris Ukiyoe resembles a haiku, offering an expansive light structure for a serene Japanese garden scene. It has decent staying power despite becoming slightly intimate after roughly two hours. At times you might think it's faded away until catching its trail again when moving or adjusting your hair. It’s essential that iris connoisseurs sample this creation. The overall impression from these notes feels somewhat acquainted - perhaps akin to a minimalist take on Tauer's impressive Zeta, which includes citrus components and iris with orris root alongside orange flower. Both incorporate linden blossoms potentially, though in Ukiyoe it could be replaced by more creamy orange blossom instead. Regardless of the specifics, this is exceptionally beautiful!

JCE demonstrates that numerous notes and synthetics aren't necessary to craft an original and pleasing fragrance creation. It strongly draws its inspiration from the gentle charm of iris, but incorporating rose and orange elements elevates this subtle simplicity into something more captivating and refined, achieving a quality that surpasses natural scents to embody a poetic exploration of nature's essence. Like other reviews indicate, JCE excels in what it deliberately avoids: no woody undertones, animalic character, or citrus presence is present. This composition cannot be accurately characterized as green, warm, cool, dry, or aquatic; however, despite omitting these common attributes, its identity as a perfume remains undeniable, and it functions effectively as an everyday personal aroma for various situations. The sole drawback noted by the user is that JCE's longevity isn't quite up to par with some other fragrances.

Iris Ukiyoé has a scent profile featuring clean iris alongside hints of greenness reminiscent of freshly sharpened pencils. It evokes memories of elementary school Field Day in 1991, particularly the anticipation before activities begin - not unlike the feeling of completing one's only required task and smelling pencil shavings and graphite from nearby. This fragrance captures that unique blend of excitement and sensory detail so well it feels like a personal memory. The cool, dew-covered notes of purple flowers and earth suggest they haven't yet warmed in the sun due to being sheltered by the school structure. It’s as though water fun, with games involving water guns, balloons, slides, and pools are calling from nearby half-filled kiddie pools, and there's a distinct presence of bubbles throughout. The overall impression is quite pleasant; it feels like the start of Field Day daydreams without any soapiness. The rose, orange blossom, and mandarin notes remain elegant rather than bold. Ultimately, the drydown delivers a beautifully pure iris experience.

There is exceptional cleanliness about this fragrance that captivates my attention. It doesn't rely on the farmed garden iris, but instead reflects a wild-growing Blue Flag iris thriving in its natural summer wetlands—cool, vibrant, invigorating, and green in character.